Lessons with La Profesora: a trip to Oaxaca, Mexico

¡Hola y bienvenidos!

It’s been a month since we’ve returned from Oaxaca (wuh-HA-ka), and I still think about it every day. The zócalo filled with families every night, the savory aroma of food cooking in street stalls, the fun of turning the corner and finding a group of costumed high school kids practicing for a dance competition. Lavender colored blossoms floated at the top of jacaranda trees and the storefronts were draped with purple banners for Lent. The entire city seemed to be painted in shades of violet.

 You probably never heard of Oaxaca. When most Americans think of Mexico they think of the resorts of Cancun or the border towns of Tijuana or Juárez. Oaxaca is the name of both the capital city and the state. It is located in the southwestern part of the country, on the Pacific coast. If you look at a map of Mexico, Oaxaca is in the southernmost part, before it curves to the east. Although there are beaches in Oaxaca state, the colonial city of Oaxaca is inland, about a six hour drive to the coast.  Even though we were there over spring break, we were far away from the infamous spring breakers.

 The obvious question is, “Why Oaxaca?” To begin with, I am crazy nuts for Mexico. I have been there over twenty times, to the beaches and colonial cities. Being a Spanish teacher, I studied in the cities of Guanajuato and Puebla. Both times I attended school there I lived with Mexican families. I am in love with the people, the history, the culture (did I mention the people?), the music, the art and of course the food. Wherever I went I heard people talk about Oaxaca. I heard “you have to go to Oaxaca” time and time again (but in Spanish, of course). That’s all I needed to pique my interest, I had to go to Oaxaca.

 What interested me most were the stories of the food and the artesanía. Everyone is familiar with the dish guacamole. “Mole” is the Aztec word for “sauce”, and Oaxaca is famous for having seven moles. These are dishes made with chicken or pork, and each of the seven moles is a complex sauce of a different color (red, green, yellow, black). I've had the traditional mole poblano, but I couldn’t rest until I had all seven moles.

 Oaxaca is also famous for its crafts, or artesanía. Chances are if you’ve been to a gift shop or market anywhere in Mexico you’ve seen the handicrafts of Oaxaca. Woven baskets, green pottery, woolen textiles, all come from Oaxaca. The villages surrounding Oaxaca are each dedicated to a specific craft and color is everywhere: natural dyes create deep hues in the weavings of Teotitlán del Valle, shiny black pottery in San Bartolo Coyotepec and brightly painted carved wooden animals, alebrijes, from Arrazola.

 I had high expectations for Oaxaca, as I had been dreaming of visiting there for many years. And it did not disappoint. The weather was picture perfect: blue skies and white puffy clouds every day (the rainy season was still a few months away). We lived in shorts and sandals, my favorite attire.

 Oaxaca was conquered by the Spanish in the 1500’s, and the colonial architecture of many buildings and churches is evidence of their influence. No big chain hotels here; we stayed in a small charming hotel that had been a private home in the 1600’s, complete with a central courtyard that now serves as the dining room. These boutique-style hotels are all over the city, tucked into side streets, with unassuming facades that belie the charm within. Open the heavy carved wooden door and you may find a peaceful patio with a fountain and songbirds in ornate cages, ivy cascading down the stone walls. Back on the street there is bougainvillea everywhere, and large, lush ficus trees (nothing like the one you have at home in a pot) fill the zócalo.

 “Zócalo”, there’s that word again. Sometimes called “plaza mayor”, the zócalo is the town square that every town in Mexico has, big or small. It is the heart of the city, the gathering place for old and young, families, groups of friends, couples on dates, villagers and businessmen. Typically there is a large church anchoring one end of the plaza. In many cities there is a bandstand in the middle of the zócalo, where on any given night you may find a local orchestra playing. Ringing the plaza are restaurants with outdoor seating spilling from one restaurant to the next. Sometimes you’re not even sure which restaurant you’re in! The zócalo in Oaxaca is typical: vendors carrying what seem like hundreds of colorful balloons, children running and playing, mariachi bands willing to serenade you for 10 pesos a song. It is a thriving, vibrant scene of people enjoying simple pleasures.

 In case you’re wondering, yes, I did in fact try all seven moles. I have my favorite, but they were all delicious. I did, however, pass on the chapulines; the local snack of fried grasshoppers. Maybe next time.

 I’ve barely scratched the surface of all there is to know and appreciate about Oaxaca. I encourage those who are interested to read more about it, there’s a wealth of information online and I’ve included links below. If you have any specific questions, feel free to post them in the comment section. Or if you’ve had any interesting experiences in Latin American countries, or travel tips, I’d love to hear them, too.

 In the spirit of travel and adventure, here’s an expression in Spanish:

 No perdemos nada con probar:    We don’t lose anything by trying

 Links:   http://oaxaca-travel.com/

            http://www.go-oaxaca.com/

             http://travel.nytimes.com/travel/guides/north-america/mexico/oaxaca/